Turf Calculator

Measure your lawn's area (length x width for a rectangle, or pi x radius squared for a circle), then add a wastage allowance for cutting around edges and obstacles - typically 5% for a simple rectangle, up to 25% for a circular or heavily obstructed lawn. Use the calculator above to get an exact figure for your own garden's shape and complexity.

Most UK turf suppliers cut rolls to the TGA (Turfgrass Growers Association) standard of 1m² (0.61m x 1.64m), which is what this calculator assumes. However, UK turf sizing isn't universally standardised - some suppliers cut larger "big roll" formats - so always confirm the exact roll size with whoever you're buying from before finalising your order.

5% is usually enough for a simple, straight-edged rectangular lawn. Increase this to 15-20% if your garden has curves, borders, a tree, or other obstacles to cut around, and up to 25% for a circular lawn or one with lots of curves - cutting around curved or obstructed edges always produces more offcuts than straight lines.

Turf comes in rectangular strips. Fitting those strips around a curve or an obstacle means cutting each piece to shape, and the cut-off offcuts are usually too small or awkward to reuse elsewhere on the lawn - so more of what you buy ends up as waste. A perfectly rectangular lawn needs almost no cutting at all, which is why it gets the lowest wastage allowance.

UK turf suppliers generally recommend at least 100mm of cultivated topsoil as a minimum, with 150mm preferred for healthy root establishment. If your garden has poor or bare subsoil, aim for around 200mm. The soil should also be levelled, raked to a fine tilth, and firmed before turfing.

If your existing soil is already good quality, well-drained and reasonably deep, you may only need to cultivate and level it rather than add fresh topsoil. Poor, compacted, thin or very sandy/clay soil usually benefits from a layer of quality topsoil added on top to give the new turf's roots something better to establish into.

Material-only prices are roughly £2-3/m² for budget/economy turf, around £5/m² for mid-range general-purpose turf, and up to £7/m² or more for premium ornamental or showground-grade turf. Add roughly £15-20/m² in total if you're paying for professional supply-and-lay installation rather than just buying the turf yourself.

Budget turf is typically a hardwearing, economical rye-grass-heavy mix suited to family gardens with regular foot traffic. Mid-range turf usually offers a denser, more even ornamental lawn suitable for most gardens. Premium turf (sometimes called showground or fine ornamental turf) uses finer grass species for a lush, manicured finish, but is more delicate and needs more careful aftercare.

Autumn (September-October) and spring (March-May) are generally considered the best times, since the soil is warm and reliably moist, giving roots the best chance to establish before extreme summer heat or winter frost. Summer laying is possible but needs much more careful, frequent watering; laying during hard frost or waterlogged winter ground is best avoided.

Most guidance suggests avoiding heavy foot traffic for the first 2-3 weeks while the roots knit into the soil below, though light, occasional use is usually fine after the first week or so. Avoid mowing, heavy furniture, or sustained play/pet use until the turf feels firmly rooted when gently tugged.

Water thoroughly immediately after laying - this is the most critical step and shouldn't be delayed. For the first 1-2 weeks, water daily (sometimes twice a day in warm weather) to keep the top 10cm of soil consistently moist, then taper to every other day for weeks 3-4. Never let newly laid turf dry out in the first month - turf that dries out before its roots establish can die and won't recover with later watering.

Turf typically begins knitting its roots into the soil below within 2-3 weeks under good conditions, though full establishment can take 4-6 weeks or longer in cooler weather. Gently tug a corner of a turf piece after a couple of weeks - resistance means the roots have started to establish.

No - laying new turf directly on top of old grass prevents proper root contact with the soil and traps decaying vegetation underneath, which can cause drainage and rooting problems. Remove the old lawn (strip or kill it off) and prepare the bare soil properly before laying new turf.

A straightforward, reasonably flat rectangular garden is a realistic DIY weekend project for most people, provided you can prepare the ground properly and lay the turf promptly after delivery (ideally within 24-48 hours). Larger, sloped, poorly drained, or heavily obstructed gardens, or situations where you can't commit to the intensive first-month watering routine, are often better handled by a professional landscaper.

Split an irregular garden into simpler shapes - rectangles, triangles or a circle - measure and calculate each one separately, then add the areas together. This calculator supports rectangle and circle shapes directly, or you can enter your own already-calculated total area using the "I already know my area" option.